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Lure Tossers Pg 1
Poppin and Walkin For Bass
by G. Wayne Byrd


Two of the most productive methods of topwater fishing are using a popper , or chugger type lure, and "walkingthe-dog" with a surface walker. When it comes to popper type lures, you may remember the old Heddon Lucky 13 , Bass Oreno , or the Heddon Chugger Spook . Lure design has changed drastically since the first production of those aforementioned lures, and now we have such poppers as the Berkley Frenzy Popper , Tsunami Talkin Popper , Rapala Skitter Pop and the Lucky Craft G-Splash . For topwater walking-the-dog applications, we have the Heddon Spook and Super-Spook , which have been around for many years and are, still to this day, top producers. Some other surface walkers include Lucky Craft Sammy , Rapala Skitter Walk , Salmo MAAS Marauder and the Yo-Zuri Banana Boat . While all of these lures produce fish in different situations, I have discovered a lure that is producing topwater hits for me on a consistent basis when water and light conditions are right. The lures I speak of are made by L & S Mirrolure . The popper is called The Humpback Mule and is actually a jointed topwater popper. The walking-the-dog style surface walker I prefer is called the Top Dog Jr. Both lures are extremely good quality and haveextra sharp hooks, which can really come in handy when you have a bassthat might strike you a little bit short, or not hit the lure very hard.

Lets start by taking a look at when the best time to use a topwater lure would be, and then the techniques involved in producing the most strikes. I have caught some of my largest bass, by far, on topwater lures. My reasoning behind this occurrence is that back in the old days, everybody I knew threw topwater lures. They threw them for 2 or 3 hours in the mornings and 2 or 3 hours in the evening. From an industry perspective, topwater lures are not among the top sellers these days. The majority of the people I fish with these days mainly throw spinnerbaits, plastics and crankbaits. Could it be that the big bruiser bass that have been around for several years have seen all of the spinners and cranks, after being caught several times on these lures, and now tend to shy away from them? I think this is possible, and if you go down South to Texas or Louisiana, you will see huge bass being taken on topwater lures. I have a good friend who says that the bass have seen the same lures over and over again for so many years that they have the serial and model numbers on the bottom of the lures memorized. This might be a bit of a stretch, but almost all the bass I have caught that are over 5 pounds are loners, holding on a particular piece of structure in the lake. I won't say that you never see large bass schooling up, but it is a rare occurrence. Smallmouth bass are different though...they do tend to school up in certain areas, and there can be many large fish all together at one time.

I use topwater baits mainly when the water temperature is 60 degrees or above, but I have caught bass on topwaters when it was in the high 50's. Whenever I see a stump, rock, or maybe a bush, further away from other structure, I throw a topwater right to it. The best way to provoke a reaction strike from a big largemouth is to cast the bait right to the cover, not beyond it. If you cast past the target, the bass will be alert before the bait gets there. You may have seen them boil or swirl when you do this, instead of smashing it. They are tentative when you work the bait up to the cover, and then they just swirl at it, or miss. To provoke a big bass into exploding on the bait you must cast right to the cover! The popper is one of my favorite baits to use in places that have a lot of grass or milfoil that is holding bass. When you retrieve a popper, it requires a fast jerk, which spits water out from the front of the cup-lipped bait, and the bait makes a deep pop or bullfrog sound. You then should let the lure sit for a few moments and repeat this process again. I will never forget, when I was 11 years old I caught my first largemouth bass over 5lbs on a clear popper with a white bucktail. The lure was a Pico Lil Pop and what a thrill that was! I watched the fish following my lure,when all of a sudden a topwater explosion occurred, and I was in for a fight. Ever since that moment, I have been a fan of the popper style lure. I like to use it like I would a crankbait from the perspective that you can cover a lot of water when you think of your lure as a search-bait. Simply put, trying to find out where the fish are located.

Walking type topwater lures are another great bait especially in post spawn season, when big bass are around some shallow cover, but they aren't particularly aggressive yet. I use baits with rattles for this also. I've caught a lot of big bass on topwater walkers in prespawn as well as postspawn. Also, on really warm days early in the year, it produces well. I just cast it to the structure, let it sit, twitch it a few times, and they usually just suck it in. To walk-the-dog, you simply snap your rod in a downward motion over and over again throughout the entire retrieve. This will force the lure to zig-zag back and forth from left to right. This action drives bass crazy as they think an injured baitfish is trying to get away. When I am throwing alighter weight popper or surface walker, I tend to use spinning gear on a 6 to 7 rod with a medium action. When I am throwing Spooks or other heavier or larger lures, I switch over to a baitcaster with a 66 or 7 rod with a medium heavy to heavy action. When I am throwing topwater lures in tight areas, with very specific targets, where there is no room for error, I will downsize to a 6 casting rod. This length is much more accurate than longer rods and easier to control when working an area with stumps and brush, where one bad cast will tangle your lure up and waste your precious fishing time.
Although most of my really big bass have come from shallow water, they were always in a place that was near deep water, where one or more grasses came together, and near the main creek channel or water inlet. The fish always had some kind of deep-water escape route nearby. I feel that in larger bodies of water the big bass spend much of their time in deeper water, and just move in and out of the shallows as the opportunities arise, when hunting for food. As I mentioned previously, most anglers use these baits at sunrise or sunset, but I use them all times of the day, especially when the sky is overcast. Big bass are always on the shady side of cover once the sun rises. They can be enticed into striking a popper or surface walker at all times of the day when presented properly. Bigger bass feed more frequently due to their body size, and when they do feed, they want a bigger meal if at all possible. They have to expend a great deal of energy to catch their prey, and want to make sure the size is sufficient to meet their needs. Good luck on your topwater action and e-mail me with any questions.
Wormin For Bass
by G. Wayne Byrd

Over the past several years the sinking stickworm has not only brought plastic lures back into the mainstream, it has produced an incrediblenumber of catches and become a staple in bass boxes across the world. The Senko was introduced by Gary Yamamoto several years ago and this soft jerkbait has become a favorite presentation of mine as well as a solid fish catching bait in practically any condition. There are several companies who have jumped on the bandwagon and produced a similar stickbait. This list includes the Yum Dinger, Berkley Sinking Minnow, Tiki Stick, Strike King Zero and my all time favorite, the
Gambler Ace . These worms are heavily impregnated with salt, which makes the bass want to hang on and not let go! Some of them are even coated with scents like garlic and anise to make them more appealing. I would like to discuss three rigging methods that I have found to be the most strike producing worm methods. They are the Texas rig, the jig rig and the wacky rig. We will also discuss presentation and color as well.

When you first study the stickbait, you might realize that it looks like a plain, simple non-fancy worm. Yamamoto actually got the idea for this worm from the shape of the old Bic Click ink pens. There is really nothing about this worm that really jumps out and grabs you. I have had people tell me It looks like that worm wont do anything which is precisely what its supposed to do! Its been labeled the do nothing worm which explains the slow horizontal fall that the worm is most famous for. This horizontal fall drives fish absolutely crazy and produces a multitude of strikes. When the bass see this bait, they consider it to be a nice meal and something that will not require a big chase to capture. The majority of my hits have occurred while the bait is on the slow downward descent, but I receive many hits when the bait is sitting on the bottom doing nothing.
These stickbaits come in so many colors and combinations that its impossible to list them all. When selecting your colors, take a look around you and see what colors are the most prevalent. You have heard fly fishermen say, match the hatch, this is exactly what you are trying to accomplish when choosing colors of plastics. My best producing colors whether fishing in a tournament or just practicing on a local shore has been watermelon black flake, watermelon red, watermelon gold flake, pumpkin with chartreuse tail and my #1 color is Junebug. I would suggest you try these colors first and see how they fair for you as many of us fish primarily much of the same waters in Colorado.

Texas RigWeightless/Weedless

I prefer to fish this rig with no weight at all unless I am somewhere down South where I have to punch through extra heavy weed cover to get the stickbait in the water. In Colorado, I have always fished this rig weightless. This allows for the slow horizontal fall to take place and will produce the most strikes. These stickbaits come in a variety of sizes from 3 up to 8. We will focus on a 5 and 6 model, which is the most used size according to all the manufacturers. Depending on the conditions and what size hooks you have available, you should try and use a 3/0 hook as a minimum and up to a 5/0 size. The hook I would recommend is the Gamakatsu EWG or the Gamakatsu G Lock. These hooks are sharp right out of the package and will ensure good hookups. The nice thing about this rig is you can run it through about anything and remain weedless. I use this rig to skip under docks, in and out of heavy structure and in thick weeds. This rig provides great hooksetting ability, as the hook does not have to travel through the plastic to get to the lip of the fish.
Simply cast the stickbait out and let it do its slow fall. Be sure to keep your line fairly tight as a lot of hits occur while the bait is sinking. You really have to focus on your line as fish will swim up to the bait and inhale it slowly and you wont see or feel a big strike. When the bait has hit the bottom and is just resting, I always let it sit there for about 2or 3 minutes. I know this sounds a bit boring but this method produces a lot of catches for me. After the stickbait has been sitting for a while, slowly lift your rod tip, then let it down and reel in the slack as the bait starts the falling pattern again. I like to give the stickbait a few jerks now and then on a slack line as it will dance around a bit and encourage nice strikes. One mistake that most anglers make is to set the hook too early when using a stickbait. When you feel or see a hit take place, just relax for a moment and allow the fish to take the bait before you set the hook. I know this can be frustrating and you are probably wondering how many fish you will lose by following this method, but when the fish actually takes the bait you almost have a guaranteed catch! Many times they come up to the bait just to get a taste and when the taste the salt, they grab it again and wont let go.

Jig Rig

This presentation is used when fish are suspended and you are having problems getting them to hit. With a 3 or 4 stickbait and a 1/8oz jig head you can keep the bait in the zone for a longer period of time thus resulting in more strikes. I use 1/16oz to oz jigs depending on the speed of the fall I am trying to accomplish. Depending on the structure you are fishing, the jig stickbait can be jerked, dragged or skipped across the bottom just like you would a bass jig or tube bait. Weed lines and ledges are a great place to run this bait as long as hang-ups are not a big issue. I like to go to this presentation when nothing else is working. It is a finesse presentation that will put fish in the bag for you.
Wacky Rig

This has been a favorite presentation of worm fishermen for a long time and it is just as deadly when wacky rigging the stickbait. You should downsize your hook a bit to a 1/0 or 2/0 size when presenting the wacky rig. I like to cast the stickbait out and let it sink and sit for a few minutes. I then began my retrieve, but instead of slowly raising my rod tip I shake the tip on the way up and then let the bait fall. You must be careful not to get the wacky worm in thick grass or structure, as the hook is not weedless. Holes in structure as well as weedlines that are adjacent to open water areas are great places to try this technique out. Sometimes you will just want to bounce the stickbait across the bottom by jerking it on a stack line, especially in shallow water areas. This will give the bait a swimming action, which will produce violent strikes. Rocks that are slightly under the water's surface are one of my favorite areas to focus on when wacky worming. I cast beyond the rock structure, let the rig fall and sit a while, then start shaking it up the far side of the rock. I will then bring it over the top of the rock and slightly shake it down the front of the rock. I was using this technique in a medium size farm pond in Larimer County Colorado several months ago and this technique enabled me to catch 11 smallmouth in the 3lb and 4lb range in about an hour.

With stickbaits, it doesnt matter whether you are fishing open water, structure, shallow, deep, under docks, rocks or weeds; this is a bait that will produce a bite in almost any environment. These stickbaits are available at most tackle stores in the area so stop in a grab yourself a bag. Heck, you can even drop me an e-mail and I will take you out and show you how to throw these bad boys! If you would like more information about Gambler products, you can contact me at
bassmasters65@yahoo.com and remember, if you are a member of Fishin' Secrets and go to www.gambler-bang.com and place an order, put "wayne" in the special offers section and you will receive 50% off your order---Thanks!
TEXAS RIG
WACKY RIG
Gambler Ace
JIGGIN FOR BASS
by G. Wayne Byrd

As I was fishing several months ago under a partly cloudy sky with patchy fog starting to set in, the reality hit that fall weather was upon us. The temperature when I arrived at one of my favorite fishing holes was a beautiful and sunny 70 degrees and now I was starting to get a bit chilled. The weather had taken on a new identity in the past hour or so. The fishing had started to slow down as well. The hits were plentiful and constant when the sun was beaming down upon the dam and the bass were stacked around the rocks adjacent to the weed beds just begging to be caught. I had already landed around 15 nice keepers when the sun disappeared behind a cloud and failed to show its face again. I began to rummage through my tackle bag trying desperately to find the perfect bass wrangling lure that would take my catch rate back to an acceptable level. I threw a spinnerbait for a while and then switched to a Rat-L-Trap . I then threw a few in-line spinners followed by some crawfish imitation plastics and followed up with the Junebug colored stick worm I had caught all of the previous fish on. Still, I could not find a bite.

As I sat on the bank of the pond I started to think very hard about my present situation. I looked around and noticed that the trees were just beginning to shed their dark green colors and change to shades of red, orange and yellow. I reached into my bag and pulled out my box of jigs and selected a 1/4oz model with a brown and orange skirt. I then put a chartreuse plastic craw as a trailer, which made the jig match my surroundings perfectly and flipped the jig towards the rock ledge. The jig was allowed to sit for about 60 seconds and then the slow retrieval process began. A very slow upward motion of the rod tip with a few slight jerks thrown in intermediately was exactly what the bass wanted. After a few retrieves were made and I was waiting for the jig to travel back downward so I could begin the process again, thats when she hit! Once I landed the fish she was weighted and released. It was the largest bass of the day weighting in at 5lbs 4oz.

Fishing with a jig or the jig-and-pig is an extremely effective method for catching those stubborn fall bass. I rely on this method during the spring as well as certain times throughout the year, but sometimes forget how effective the bait really is until I throw it a few times usually out of desperation. Lets first talk about the equipment needed for effective jig fishing. A baitcast reel with a flipping switch built in the reel is my number one choice. Pair this reel with a medium-heavy 7 foot pitching or flipping stick and as far as the equipment goes, your ready to go. I prefer to use a heavier line such as 50lb Power Pro with about 48 of Berkley Vanish or Transition fluorocarbon line tied on to the braid as a leader. This will assure that you have the strength needed to horse those big bass out of heavy cover when necessary. I realize that some of you might not be baitcast users so rest assured that a spinning reel works also as long as you have a long spinning rod about 7 to 71/2 feet. You want to be able to flip the jig into place without causing a big wake and disrupting what you hope lies below. Accuracy is a big key when flippin jigs.

I know many anglers who are of the opinion that jig fishing is rather complicated and they dont really understand how to do it. Lets take a little time and discuss the important facts surrounding jig fishing. First and foremost, I want to stress to you that confidence is the most important key regardless of what you are throwing. I have been in the situation when I am fishing with a partner and he ties something rather odd on his line and I think, What is this guy doing? I watch as he fishes the lure with total confidence and concentration and before you know, the fish are coming in the boat. I might not have tried that particular lure, but through commitment and confidence it's surprising what can happen, if you will maintain an open mind. Whether you fish the jig as is, or with some type of plastic chunk, craw or worm as a trailer, the choice is yours. I fish the jig both with and without and they will produce both ways. I usually put on a large flat plastic chunk if I want to slow the fall of the lurea bit.
Color is very important, and to some people overly technical, but I tend to simplify if a bit. How many of you have a favorite lure, that you have all 26 colorsavailable in your tackle box? Do you use each and every color? Most anglers have all of the colors and out of all of those colors, they might have 4 or 5 colors they are stuck on that really produce. I simply take the 4 or 5 colors that work on the other lures and add a few other colors and end up with 7 or 8 jig colors. Dont forget to look around you and match the hatch so to speak. I fish black & blue, black & chartreuse, blue & chartreuse, brown (or copper) & orange and watermelon w/black flake jigs most of the time. Some models have rattles and some do not. I love to fish lipless cranks because of the noisy rattle; therefore I choose models with rattles. Once again, it all revolves around what you have the most confidence in. Jigs come in a vast array of sizes as well. I prefer 1/4oz and 1/2oz the most, unless I have to punch down through heavy structure like heavy brush or submerged hydrilla. When everything is still and the wind is not blowing, I always go with the lighter jig.

As far as the presentation goes, its pretty simple. Find the spot you want to lay the jig and flip it to the target. This is a technique that takes practice and during the off season I tend to practice in the basement with 5lb coffee cans placed strategically around the floor. Keep in mind that jigs are target-specific lures. Once the lure is flipped out, I usually let it sit for about 30 to 60 seconds. If you choose to just leave the jigs sitting there for a while and then reel it in and repeat the process, this is called deadsticking. You can lift and drop your tip and let the jig fall and then repeat again or you can bounce, hop or swim it across the bottom as well. Do what you want to do with the jig, as there is no right or wrong way to fish it, just theories. During fall, bass tend to become more lethargic as water temperatures drop. My favorite method during this period is to simply drag the jig past each and every piece of cover. Just a slow steady retrieve without any jerks or tugs on the line produces the best results. Bass will absolutely whack the jig if it comes cruising slowly past them. I also like to flip it to a stump or cover point and just let it fall, then hop it a few times and let it fall again. This technique is used when you are simply going for a reaction bite on the fall.
I think one of the hardest things I had to figure out when jig fishing was when to set the hook. I still know weekend anglers as well as pro anglers who miss about 70% of their strikes on the jig because they set the hook to late. I am a big plastic worm fisherman and have learned to always set the hook on the second tap, especially when you are using a Senko style worm. With a jig, the first tap is generally the bass sucking the jig up and the second tap is the bass spitting it out. I think it would behoove you to set the hook the very second that you feel a tap or when the jig feels different in any way whatsoever. One method that I use whether fishing a plastic worm or a jig is to putmy finger under the line and lift up just a bit soI can feel any change that might occur. Remember, dont try and force the jig on the fish. He will either want the bait or he will not. During early spring fishing, the jig can really irritate bedded bass and cause them to strike uncontrollably.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about the mechanics of bass fishing with a jig. Keep in mind that confidence plays a major role in everything you do in life. When I am fishing and starting to struggle with the confidence factor, I am often reminded of Takahiro Omori from Japan. Takahiro came to the U.S. in 2023 to become a professional bass angler. When he left Japan, he had it in his mind he would win the Citgo Classic event. Before the 2023 B.A.S.S. Citgo Classic, Takahiro went to Woo Daves house to visit Woo and see the trophy that Woo had won at the Classic several years prior. When Takahiro saw it, he grabbed the trophy and started to yell and scream and shake the trophy over his head as if he had just won the Classic himself. He actually visualized himself winning! He was pretty pumped up when he left Woos house that evening. A short time later, Takahiro Omori won the 2023 B.A.S.S. Citgo Classic and was the first non-American too ever win a B.A.S.S. Classic. Bye the way, Takahiro said that he refocused his thinking, pumped himself up and started fishing hard during the last minutes of the tournament. Takahiro caught his two biggest bass during the last five minutes of the tournament.

"This is the best day of my life," said Omori, who pounded the stage repeatedly and cried openly before the 13,200 spectators in the Charlotte Coliseum. Until next time, keep a tight line and happy fishin.

Buzzin For Bass
by G. Wayne Byrd

If you are anything like me, you live for the action packed, heavy hitting, bone jarring topwater explosion produced when you throw a topwater bait. As far as I am concerned, it is incredibly exiting to watch the water splash upwards and the opportunity to see that lunker bass flash and slam into your bait! Getting a bass to take surface baits requires you to get their attention. Out of all the topwater baits on the market, few, if any, come close to creating as much surface disturbance as does the buzzbait . To a prowling hungry bass, this unique sputtering, splashing and gurgling noise that is created by a buzzbait is extremely hard to resist. I would like to educate and provide you with an understanding of the buzzbait so you can also enjoy the success of this awesome and versatile lure.

The buzzbait is designed specifically for surface fishing and lacks some of the versatility that its cousin, the spinnerbait possesses. Nevertheless I have found that many times a buzzbait is often more effective than a spinnerbait when fishing over grassy, weedy areas, or visible timber. Why? First of all it is less likely to become fouled in the grass or weeds. Second, in stained water or thick vegetation, the sound created by a buzzbait not only alerts bass to its presence but it allows them to locate, track, and acquire the bait much faster. Third, there is something special about the way a buzzbait will ignite the predatory instincts of a bass. A buzzbait will work best in calmer waters, however I often use one when there is a slight surface chop on the water. Although, too much wave action will erase the disturbance action caused by the buzzbait, so let your common sense take over in this situation.
When the surface temperature of the water is in the 60-degree range and the aforementioned water conditions are in alignment, I will throw a buzzbait just about anytime. Buzzbaits are typically thrown when the sky is overcast or when you are in a low light condition. Most people use the bait early in the morning or late in the evening. Keep in mind, this is simply a theory and you can throw a buzzbait anytime of the day. Buzzbaits are very effective when thrown into thick or heavy grass cover during warm or hot weather. You just might be surprised by how effective a buzzbait is at drawing bass out of the densest grass or surface matting. This versatile lure is great for locating bass. They will cast far and can be retrieved faster than most topwater baits. This will allow you to cover a lot more water in a shorter period of time. Considering that a buzzbait has a single hook that is usually offset, this will allow the bait to be fished in all types of cover no matter how dense it might be. This really adds to the locator ability of the bait as well.

I think that the biggest disadvantage of the buzzbait is the fact that bass will often completely miss the bait or strike it short. Some newer buzzbait manufacturers have helped to greatly increase the hook-up ratio by off-setting the weighted head and hook from the wire which runs the head and hook a bit deeper in the water than conventional buzzbaits. You can also buy single trailer hooks that will ad percentages to your hook-up rate. For this addition, I would recommend the
Gamakatsu trailer hook . One other issue with the buzzbait occurs when you fish the bait in very dense cover. Bass sometimes have problems catching the bait. You might have to slow your retrieve a bit when fishing in these conditions. There is almost nothing as disturbing as when you see that water part and you get that huge powerful hit on your bait only to discover there is not a fish on the hook! With that being said, you must also be extremely careful not to set the hook to soon. This action will basically pull the bait right out of the mouth of the fish.

I view the procedure for an effective hookset with the buzzbait almost the same as a hookset with a Senko style worm. As with all topwater baits, you need to try and delay or hold back on the hookset a bit. I wait until I actually feel the fish take to bait. A good rule of thumb is to always set the hook by feel, not by sight or sound. The faster the fish hits the bait, the longer I wait. Many times a bass will hit the bait when they are cruising along at a high rate of speed and miss the hook entirely. They will often come back around and take another swipe at the bait if you keep your retrieve steady and slow the speed down a bit to make them think they possibly injured the bait. You can really up your odds if you have the buzzbait coated with a great scent as well. If the bass gets a taste of the scent, they are much more likely to come back for seconds.

Buzzbaits come in several sizes, but the most popular are the 1/4oz and the 1/2oz. Some buzzbaits have a clacker built in to make them louder. Blades come in all different sizes as well as shapes. One trick I learned several years ago is to take a 1/8 drill bit and drill about 4 or 5 holes on all sides of the blades. This will force water through the blade holes and cause the water to bubble up. This will make the fish, which is looking at the bait from an underwater perspective, think that there is really something big going on near the surface. Buzzbaits are also available in one, two, three and even four blade models. The more blades a bait possesses, the louder they are.
When it comes to retrieving the bait, I like to retrieve just fast enough to keep the bait up on the water surface. If I do not get a reaction using this presentation, I then increase the speed until I get a reaction. There are times when I am burning the bait at full reel speed to get a bite. You might also try an erratic type of retrieve such as a fast-slow-fast or a slow-fast-slow system. You will always be a successful fisherman if you will just think your presentations out and give the fish what they want. Go ahead and experiment a little, as there really is not a right way to retrieve this lure. As far as colors go, you must experiment. If you have experienced success on a certain color of spinnerbait, I would try a duplicate that same color on a buzzbait. My favorite color of buzzbait is junebug or white/chartreuse with light blue.

I prefer using a baitcasting outfit when bass fishing, but when presenting a buzzbait, a spinning outfit is easier to use. I use a 7 spinning rod with a medium heavy action and a fast tip. If I use a casting rod, I use a 7 fast tip rod as well. My favorite rods for buzzin are the
St. Croix Avid and the Kistler Helium . If you prefer a heavy rod, you might consider the G.Loomis MBR844C GLX . The reason it is easier to use a spinning outfit is because when you cast the buzzbait out, you must engage the reel just before the bait hits the water. This will help to pull out any slack in the line and prepare you to begin your retrieve immediately. This action is much quicker if you have a bail on a spinning reel to shut quickly. Be sure to keep your rod tip up, as this will help you to keep the bait running on the surface. Be sure not to lift the rod up too high, as this could cause you to miss a strike as the bait could lift from the surface. Go out and try a little buzzin and I am sure you will fall in love, when that lunker violently strikes your buzzbait!
Eric and Jeremy
Pella Crossing Colorado
May 4, 2023
Eric, Kim, and Kim's Papa May 7, 2023
Lure Tossers Pg 3